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WOW! Richmond

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Although Richmond, Va., may hold tight to its legacy as the seat of the Confederacy and savor the prestige of being the state capital, today this sophisticated grande dame possesses something besides history.

Yes, there are still ghosts of the Civil War in almost every downtown nook and cranny, and there are plenty of character re-enactors to tell you all about them. What is growing, however, is a vibrant arts scene, “new” historic neighborhoods and one of the nation’s most ambitious redevelopment projects in a former warehouse district along the James River.

In addition, shopping emporia such as Short Pump Town Center in the burgeoning West End show nothing but a contemporary face and attitude.

Richmond is clearly about rejuvenation, rebirth, renewal, restoration, resurgence, and regeneration.

In quarters like Carytown, Shockoe and The Fan—defined by Victorian and Art Deco architectural gems—restaurants and shops offer an eclectic mix amid the history.

The Fan is the location of historic Monument Avenue, an 18th century grand boulevard lined with more architectural jewels and monumental sculptures dedicated to Confederate leaders and a Richmond native, the late tennis legend Arthur Ashe.

Carytown is sometimes called Richmond’s Georgetown, with a nod to the real thing two hours north in Washington, D.C. It’s home of the Byrd Theatre, a national historic landmark that still operates as a gilded movie and entertainment theater with seating for just a couple of bucks. Once a riverside warehouse district on the James River, Shockoe’s pubs, dance clubs and restaurants are now a lively party scene most any evening.

Of course, if it’s the elegant side of Richmond you want, there’s no place that can fill the bill better than The Jefferson Hotel, boasting an ornate marble lobby and sweeping staircase straight out of Gone With the Wind. There is fine dining in the AAA Five Diamond-rated Lemaire, and libations along with lighter fare in the clubbish TJ’s Restaurant.

Leta McVeety, director of convention services for the hotel, says history and contemporary themes are both popular for on- and off-site group events.

“There’s a lot of change going on all around Richmond,” McVeety says, “but most of our groups still like to do history-related events. We theme the food to go along with whatever era we are doing. We’ve also had groups get into the race car idea. NASCAR is popular here at the Richmond International Raceway, and we’ve even brought in cars from our local G-Force site into our ballroom.”

Louis Gintner Botanical Gardens is great for a more elegant occasion, she adds, with venues ranging from a teahouse to an historic manor house.

Richmond’s economy used to turn almost totally on tobacco, but no more. Banking and financial service companies surround the Richmond headquarters of the Fifth District of the Federal Reserve Bank. Other industries, like health care, technology, manufacturing, and consumer product producers, call Richmond home. Corporate names around town include Capital One, Brink’s, CarMax Inc., Circuit City, Dominion Resources, Owens & Minor, and Performance Food Group. Philip Morris USA and Virginia Commonwealth University Medical Center are both fueling a combined $1.5 billion in downtown research and development projects.

Even transportation is getting the renaissance treatment. Richmond International Airport is completing the final phase of a $245 million improvement program.

Nowadays, it seems, historic Richmond is hipper than ever.