Lively conversation over distinctive dishes have been part of the Charleston, S.C., scene since late-17th century English settlers founded the city, and diners at the today’s tables continue to find wow in new dishes that reflect Old South Lowcountry (coastal) flavors, with a new infusion of flair. Translation: Local comfort food with a twist now gets served on white linen, with a trend toward local, fresh ingredients gracing the plate.
Robert Stehling of Hominy Grill just garnered 2008 Best Chef in the Southeast honors from the James Beard Foundation. His specialty is updated versions of local dishes such as hominy stew and buttermilk pie. As a Carolina native, Stehling learned the basics as a child, and now adds his own flourishes, like a puree of bacon and thyme massaged under Thanksgiving turkey skin, pickled shrimp with fresh orange and turmeric, or mashed sweet potato and cumin in spoon bread. Pumpkin pie, studded with pecans, might get a kick from two jiggers of bourbon, naturally.
Jennifer Aiken, convention services coordinator for the Charleston CVB, says her city has infused a melange of cultures over the past three centuries that has greatly impacted its cuisine.
“We have Gullah, Jewish, African American, English and French influences in our dishes,” she says. “Groups who come here have lots of great choices. What they find is a culinary Charleston that’s on par with other great food cities like New York and Chicago.”
The destination’s evolving cuisine reaches new sensory heights, she advises, when it’s served inside one of Charleston’s many historic homes or commercial buildings. The city knows how to preserve its architectural as well as its culinary heritage, so a blend of the two makes for events that clearly communicate “place.”
Leading Charleston restaurants Slightly North of Broad, Hank’s Seafood and 82 Queen were among early adopters of “Fresh on the Menu,” a new movement by the South Carolina Department of Agriculture to encourage chefs and other purveyors to buy from local farmers and local vendors. Those who commit to the “fresh” initiative have a minimum of 25 percent product from local suppliers.
“We use as much local as possible,” says Laura Bright, marketing director of Maverick Southern Kitchens restaurant group, because it not only supports local farmers but it also gives our guests a fresher product. Also, it’s good for the Charleston economy.”
Bright says her company provides groups several ways to do more than dine in private venues on 21st century Charleston cuisine. Charleston Cooks! is the firm’s cooking school and retail store, and offers private cooking demonstrations for up to 34 people or participation functions for as many as 14.
Culinary team building is also a possibility. Groups may work on a salad, main course and dessert. Sometimes the group might get a recipe that’s missing an ingredient—a curveball, just like in real work situations—so they have to negotiate with others for assistance.
Elsewhere, new concepts are flavoring Charleston cuisine. At Huck’s Lowcountry Table, chef Joseph Martin infuses his creations with tropical fruits, mint and savory chutneys. Asian-inspired choices, like spring rolls with pickled cabbage and mango ginger sauce, are also on the menu. Donnie Bulliard has brought his Louisiana Cajun expertise to Cajun Kitchen, where selections include meat pie au gratin and etoufee.
But even though Charleston chefs probably will move the local cuisine in even more creative directions, customers aren’t likely to let them forget the basics called Lowcountry comfort food. After all, how can you improve on perfection?
