The “Big Easy” doesn’t miss a beat when it comes to belting out one of the world’s most unique and eclectic cultural scenes. Its French, Spanish, Creole, African and Caribbean roots permeate the city, making bold statements in its architecture, cuisine and music.
Where else can you wake up to beignets and coffee, spend the afternoon exploring Old World districts like the French Quarter and the Faubourg Marigny, savor some shrimp and andouille sausage gumbo or crawfish etouffe, and top off the evening enjoying the soulful sounds of musicians pumping out jazz, blues, zydeco and everything in between?
One such artist is Irvin Mayfield, born and raised in the “Birthplace of Jazz.” Mayfield picked up the trumpet in 1986 at the age of 9 and hasn’t stopped playing since, quickly establishing himself as one the most illustrious jazz musicians of his generation.
He leads the Irvin Mayfield Quintet, co-founded Latin jazz band Los Hombres Calientes and also founded and is artistic director for the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra (NOJO), dedicated to jazz preservation, education and performance. He has released 10 albums and appeared on or produced a number of others. In 2003, in a testament to his passion for the city and its deep jazz legacy, the U.S. government, Louisiana state government and New Orleans city government appointed Mayfield the official cultural ambassador for the city of New Orleans.
Like any proud local, he’s not shy about touting what he describes as “the embarrassment of riches” to be found in his hometown, especially with the vibrant spirit created by the rebirth and revitalization of the city following Hurricane Katrina.
“New Orleans is unparalleled in terms of a city where you can have an authentic American experience because it has its own culture—its own indigenous food, music, dance—and it’s the only place in the world to have that cultural experience,” Mayfield says.
Best of all, he adds, it’s an intrinsic part of daily life, so it’s ingrained in the visitor experience.
“Once you plan a party, you don’t have to plan all the other stuff because you can walk right out of your hotel into the French Quarter, and it’s already going on,” he says.
Aside from cuisine, architecture and history, music is a big part of that vibe, with the city having spawned famous musicians such as Louis Armstrong, Fats Domino, Wynton Marsalis and Harry Connick Jr.
“In New Orleans, the captain of the high school band is more popular than the captain of the high school football team,” he quips. “What makes this city so special is that you can stand on a corner with a tuba, a snare drum, a trombone—instruments that might not seem sexy—but then you see people dancing all over the place.”
Mayfield’s tips for experiencing some of New Orleans’ best jazz, other than securing NOJO or one of its affiliated bands for a private event or convention?
“The first thing to do is go see 97-year-old Lionel Ferbos, who plays trumpet at the Palm Court every Saturday,” he advises. “Now that—that is history.”
Of course, you might be lucky enough to catch another master trumpeter, Mayfield himself, on lively Frenchmen Street, where NOJO hosts a jam session for aspiring musicians every Wednesday at Snug Harbor.
