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Checking Out - MidAmerica November/December 2009

Just over two decades ago, when Charlie Trotter was first stepping into Chicago’s culinary limelight with his Charlie Trotter’s restaurant, classic French bistros and steakhouses reigned over a very Midwest-flavored dining scene.

"In 1987, we were an aberration to anything that was happening," says Trotter, who has since earned 10 James Beard Foundation awards for his Asian-influenced minimalist cuisine. "It’s a good thing I was so dumb that I didn’t know what I was doing. There were a lot of critics in the beginning who said Chicago is a meat and potatoes town."

Over the years, Trotter’s has become more minimalist, using simple, clean ingredients.

"We invented the tasting menu in America 20 years ago," Trotter points out. "We do a fish menu, vegetable menu. For us it’s sort of old hat, what we’ve always done—trying to conceive of a set of courses that will all make sense; no one course more important than the other."

His Grand Degustation menu brings together seasonal ingredients, from fresh seafood and organic dairy products to game birds.

"It’s like composing a bit of music, something you begin with, then move on to other textures and flavors," he offers.

With Trotter’s help, Chicago is now a foodie haven.

"We have everything from the best steakhouses to ultra avant-garde food to concept restaurants, Cajun Creole food and classic French restaurants. We don’t have as many restaurants as New York City, but the best 10 restaurants in Chicago can easily compete with the best 10 in New York."

Some of Trotter’s favorites include Arun’s Thai Restaurant, which he considers one of the best Thai restaurants in the U.S.; Topolobampo for its Mexican flare; Everest, which he asserts is the best Alsatian restaurant in America; Army and Lou’s on the South Side of Chicago for its soul food; and Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, which he touts as tops in the country in its category. Trotter also notes the new wave of molecular gastronomy highlighted at trendy Alinea and Schwa.

And, according to Trotter, Chicago can go toe-to-toe with New York for its pizza with its famed deep dish pies, found at popular Giordano’s.

Trotter, who has penned 15 cookbooks and runs the Charlie Trotter Culinary Education Foundation to help those seeking careers in the culinary arts, also runs Trotter’s to Go in Chicago for do-it-yourself gourmands. His latest restaurant ventures include Restaurant Charlie and Bar Charlie in The Palazzo Hotel Resort and Casino in Las Vegas, and an upcoming signature restaurant at One Madison Park in New York City. But Chicago will always be his base.

"Chicago is on the dining forefront," he says. "Ferran Adria from El Bulli in Spain cooked at our restaurant. He said the most exciting and eclectic dining happening in the world right now is in Chicago."

For More Info

Charlie Trotter’s
www.charlietrotters.com

 

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About the author
Marlene Goldman | Contributing Writer