Smoke Tree Stables, Palm Springs, Calif.
Jan. 7, 2011
Straight out of a scene from True Grit, my horse Digger and I chart a course through the wilds of Andreas and Murray canyons, giving chase to about 20 other riders ahead. Well, chase may be an overstatement. Digger fancies himself a trailblazer, but we were slow out of the gate, leaving us near dead last in a lineup of meeting planners and well-behaved trail horses. We are on a two-hour horseback ride through the canyon, led by Smoke Tree Stables (www.smoketreestables.com), which accommodates up to 60 people on customized rides to the base of the Santa Rosa Mountains.
Actually, it is best not to rush through these canyons, home to oases of fan palms, streams and dramatic rock formations located on the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. Far from the parched desert scene I expect, the Andreas Canyon alone is host to more than 150 species of plants within a half-mile radius.
On Location: A Sacred Ride Through Indian Canyons
Digger is taking it all in stride, making sure I know he’s seen it all hundreds of times. What does get him excited is the abundance of edible greens along the Andreas Creek bed. I let him indulge and in return he keeps mostly a steady gait, though he is up for a well-mannered trot here and there. We pass the occasional hiker along the route, but our group far outnumbers the rugged travelers who have also discovered this desert gem.
A recent spate of heavy rains have swollen the streams and even washed out a small section, which forces us to dismount briefly while our horses precariously navigate a rocky patch. Our cowboy hat-wearing guide Corky gives us a hand in the maneuver.
We continue and ultimately ascend a plateau overlooking Andreas Canyon. The surrounding snow-capped peaks gradually dominate the skyline. The setting is surreal, going from frosty white in one direction to beckoning stands of palm trees in the other.
Following the trail ride, we partake of a hearty barbecue lunch courtesy of Wesley’s Catering. One of the park rangers, Raven Longbow, regales us with some history of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, whose ancestors settled in the Palm Springs area centuries ago, developing communities in the Palm, Murray, Andreas, Tahquitz and Chino canyons.
Far from a lost tribe, we learn that today the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation occupies nearly 50 square miles in the Palm Springs area, including parts of the cities of Palm Springs, Cathedral City and Rancho Mirage, making the tribe a major player in the local economy.
As we give a parting wave to our hosts (and horses), it’s apparent what a vital role the true locals play in the Palm Springs experience, and that beneath the resort-style glitz, the true heart and soul of the region lies right here.
