About a dozen miles off the coast of Rhode Island’s mainland, Block Island is a singular escape with a fascinating history.
My first visits took place eons ago as a young child, but its chief lures of seafood, serenity and long stretches of sand haven’t changed all that much since, though any group seriously seeking solitude might bypass its busy summer months, when the population triples in size.
The isle’s past includes visits from four U.S. presidents, extensive pirate lore—including a stop by Captain Kidd shortly before his death—and a brief British occupation during the War of 1812. Today, groups can peek into the past via tours of the Southeast Lighthouse, a still-active beacon constructed in 1875; a visit to the dramatic Mohegan Bluffs, the site of a Native American battle where the invading Mohegan army was driven off the cliffs to their deaths; or a stop at the charming Block Island Historical Museum near downtown New Shoreham.
Part of the island’s charm is its undeveloped nature—it has been named to the short list of The Last Great Places by the Nature Conservancy—so it is lacking somewhat in larger hotel offerings. But smaller parties will enjoy the historic aspects of the 1879 Atlantic Inn (21 guest rooms) and 1888 National Hotel (45 guest rooms), with both properties showcasing grand Victorian architecture and old-time charm.