The big picture of Florida dining looks something like this: Southern-style favorites in the north, theme park fare in the center, Caribbean and Latin American flavors in the south, and fresh seafood at the coast.
Zoom in, though, and you’ll get a different perspective—one that includes celebrity chefs who are on the leading edge of culinary innovation, and James Beard Award winners who are skipping New York and Los Angeles to employ their talents in the subtropics.
When it comes to culinary excellence, Florida is ready for its close-up. And no one knows that better than culinary star Chef Emeril Lagasse, whose Emeril’s Florida explores the state’s top restaurants and food finds on the Cooking Channel and before that, the Food Network. While Lagasse has moved on to other projects on the small screen, his two Orlando-area restaurants, Emeril’s Orlando and Tchoup Chop, still focus on Florida flavor, bringing locally sourced ingredients to the table.
“We’re showcasing Florida’s incredible local ingredients, working with fishermen and farmers,” Lagasse says of his menu.
Many chefs are saying the same, and much more, about Florida’s dining scene. We reached out to five chefs and culinary professionals to get their take on trends in Florida dining as well as the creative ways they’re hosting groups.
MICHAEL LUGO, chef and owner, Michael’s Tasting Room, St. Augustine (www.tastetapas.com); executive chef, Taberna Del Caballo and The Bull & Crown Publick House, Colonial Quarter, St. Augustine (www.colonialquarter.com).
Are you part of the farm-to-fork movement?
We were farm-to-fork before it was popular. It was always a quality issue with us, just trying to get the best products from the best regions. We get things from Ocala and the west and east coasts of Florida, finding the people who grow the heirloom varietals in areas where fruits and vegetables are at their best.
How does that impact your menu?
With our local Florida ingredients, we create the flavors of Spain. We don’t try to be 100 percent authentic because we’re on the Florida peninsula not the Iberian peninsula, but with the flavors of Florida, we build the palate of Spain, or, I should say, a local interpretation of Spain. We turn Florida flavors into a Spanish dish and “Florida-ize” typical Spanish cuisine.
Are people asking about ingredients more often?
Our guests have always enjoyed that connection to the food, and it’s a huge part of our concept, changing the menu according to what’s available seasonally and then explaining it to the diners. They’re always interested in knowing why we’ve made changes and how we evolve dishes to new presentations.
Do you offer anything specific for groups?
We have several options at Michael’s Tasting Room, including one room that holds up to 20, a main room for 70 and a courtyard for up to 35. Our traditional option for groups is tapas, which are a perfect fit. It’s a social experience and it lends itself to conversation. We also have a chef’s table, which includes going out and gathering special ingredients for a five- or six-course dinner. We can do that for between 20 and 70 people, which makes it a really unique experience. During the meal, we come out and explain every course.
Nikhil Abuvala, chef and owner, Roux 30a, Grayton Beach
Are you seeing more food-savvy diners?
We are a food-forward operation, and our client base is made up of people who are here because of their interest in food and fine cuisine. Having said that, yes, I am seeing people take a huge interest in their food. They want to know who grew it, hatched it, bred it, butchered it, and why they did so. They want to know how it was raised, whether it was grass-fed, sustainable, local, caught off the dock or flown in. Once it gets to me, then they want to know how all of that ended up in the sauce for their fish or the soup in their bowl.
To what do you attribute this trend?
I think the farm-to-fork movement has a lot to do with it. You’re seeing more farmers’ markets popping up all over—I think there are six in a 30-mile radius here—and it’s because people want to shop where they know exactly whose hands have touched their products. Every day another restaurant adds a “local farmers” list to their menu. It’s a really exciting thing to be a part of, and I’m really interested in seeing where it takes us and how it will influence us chefs even more.
Describe the group experience at Roux 30a.
It’s a completely intimate space, and it’s perfect for allowing people to relax, let their guard down and have fun. Not only do we teach classes for 20 people but we have a private chef’s table that can host up to 30 people. We’ve had groups use the space for a board meeting, followed by the chef’s table. I can also go off-site to wherever the group is meeting.
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Jamie McFadden, founder, Orlando Culinary Tours; owner, Cuisiniers Catered Cuisine & Events, Winter Park
How have you seen Orlando’s dining scene evolve?
I’ve been cooking here for 25 years, though actually, I was one of the first chefs to cook in the James Beard House, all the way back in 1994. Back in the early ’90s, you had Allen Susser, Norman Van Aken and Mark Militello in South Florida, using local ingredients there and it was pretty revolutionary at the time. Here, there have always been restaurants that understood the farm-to-table concept and about buying locally, but it’s just taken a long time and some marketing dollars to get the word out. Now there are new restaurants opening all the time—chef-driven restaurants. Last year, they announced the James Beard Award nominees here in Orlando, so that really proved how far we’ve come as a culinary destination.
Beyond Orlando, are you seeing any trends?
The whole dining scene has really evolved nationwide over the past 10 years because people are much more educated about food now than they were a decade ago. They search out where they want to go online and search about menu items and ingredients. Food is becoming more like entertainment for people. I know for myself, as a chef, I definitely plot out where I’m going to eat when I travel.
Tell us about your culinary tours and accommodating groups.
Our tours have been very well received. Between our new winery stops, the cooking and gardening and visiting with vendors in the market, it’s become really popular. As for group size, 30 seems to about the right number. We can do more but then they’d be split between two coaches. It’s about a four-hour tour and seems to work best after lunchtime, like 12:30 or 1, then back to the hotel by 6.
Joseph Palminteri, director of food and beverage, Thompson Miami Beach, home to Seagrape, headed by James Beard Award-winning chef, Michelle Bernstein
Coming from New York, have you noticed any dining trends in Miami?
Not long ago, everything was about South Beach, but now Mid-Beach is slowly becoming the next dining hot spot, with Faena, Edition, us and other hotels bringing in the high-profile chefs that are putting Mid-Beach back on the radar. It’s very exciting.
Tell us about the ambience at Seagrape.
We’re not stuffy, and we really want to cater to the local community and be a destination spot where locals can have a great meal at a reasonable price. We call ourselves the ‘Floridian brasserie’—very friendly, a little boisterous—just a very fun, relaxed environment.
Do you offer group spaces?
Seagrape has a semi-private dining room for up to 40, but it’s also available for a two-hour buyout. We can transform it into a space where we set up satellite bars and stand-up cocktail receptions. On the rest of the grounds, we have a little rum house that was built in 1928 and still has its original fireplace and wood beams. It’s available for private bookings. And then we have our Crown Bar, where we do all kinds of events, including cocktail parties. In May, we’re launching Talde, created by Dale Talde, winner of Top Chef. They have a few restaurants in New York and New Jersey, so they’re bringing that vibe to Miami. We’ll activate it with DJs and you’ll be able to book it for private events. We’re pretty lucky to have a James Beard Award-winning chef and a Top Chef winner here.
Justin Wyborn, vice president of food and beverage, Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, Hollywood
What are some culinary trends you’re seeing in Florida?
Florida is experiencing an exciting time. More than ever, talented chefs are taking a chance by investing in their culinary vision and opening establishments across the state, and not just the big-name celebrity chef restaurants. Local, on-the-rise chefs are gaining attention while using fresh ingredients found in our amazing Florida produce. Plus, Florida diners are more internationally versed on the culinary scene and are demanding more from our chefs. So we’re seeing a positive influx of original, hands-on creative concepts with unique flavors.
What is the culinary “philosophy” at your new Japanese Craft Kitchen, Kuro?
Alex Becker, who is the executive chef, uses the best ingredients with limited manipulation to maintain and focus on the natural flavors. He sources locally and imports from Japan to deliver bold and unique menu options to our guests.
How do you serve the group market?
We have 40,000 square feet of versatile event space, and our resort caters to events ranging anywhere from a small meeting to a sit-down dinner for up to 1,000 or a concert for up to 5,000. Kuro and our other signature restaurant, Council Oak Steaks & Seafood, both offer flexible group menus. We also have a chef’s table private dining room that can accommodate up to 40 people and is the show kitchen where interactive dinners and special cooking classes are hosted.
