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Houston expands its epicurean delights

From the continuing expansion of the convention campus to the revival of historic downtown, Houston is expanding in every direction. Ahead of hosting the 2016 NCAA Men’s Final Four this April and Super Bowl 51 in 2017, that includes lighting up the scoreboard with a blaze of new restaurants and bars.

“With nearly 10,000 restaurants representing cuisine from more than 70 countries and American regions, Houston’s culinary scene is as ethnically diverse as its residents,” says Mike Waterman, president of the Greater Houston CVB. “We truly have something for everyone.”

In this latest evolution of Houston’s nationally recognized culinary story, the city’s chefs, restaurateurs and scene-makers are emphasizing inventive concepts and exceptional experiences—with the group market very much in mind.

New Sensations

So goes the restaurant business, but only two of the five venues cited by The New York Times in its 2010 salute to Houston’s dining scene are still in business: event-capable seafood shrine Reef and “gastropub meets Texas icehouse” concept Beaver’s. Like Houston itself, however, the scene is all about momentum.

Among the game-changers du jour is Chris Shepherd, who won James Beard honors as Best Chef: Southwest in 2014 for Underbelly, his homage to American Creole cuisine drawn from Houston’s myriad diverse cultures. His Beard win was the first for Houston since Robert Del Grande in 1992.

Native Houstonian Justin Yu, a James Beard nominee for Best Chef: Southwest the last two years, is also out in front with his vegetable-centric Oxheart. Located in the Warehouse District, this hot ticket seats 30, including the 11-seat kitchen counter, with online reservations for up to six but also available for buyouts.

Oxheart also curates the bar snacks at Public Services Wine & Whisky, where Yu is a partner. Located in the landmark Cotton Exchange Building from 1884 and offering event space for up to 150, this inviting concept is among several transforming the downtown area, along with cocktail and live music joint The Nightingale Room and burlesque and cabaret spot Prohibition.

With three top event-capable Houston restaurants to his name, Backstreet Cafe, Hugo’s and Caracol, three-time James Beard finalist Hugo Ortega is yet another leader of the scene.

Opened in October 2015, State of Grace is the first Houston venture from Atlanta celebrity chef Ford Fry. Located across from his former high school, Fry’s stately River Oaks restaurant pays homage to Houston and Gulf Coast cuisine amid vintage and modern decor. Groups have a private dining room for 25; the Oyster Bar, for receptions of up to 35; and six-person Chef Counter.

Another hot 2015 newcomer is Helen Greek Food and Wine. As the name suggests, it’s all-Hellenic cuisine at this slender 40-seat taverna in Rice Village. Along with overseeing Houston’s first, and the nation’s second-largest, all-Greek wine list, owner and Iron Sommelier Evan Turner hosts exclusive Greek wine dinners and wine classes.

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Evoking a vintage Shanghai speakeasy with elements that include Buddha statues, geisha murals and flickering candles, Tarakaan brings Vegas-style panache to Midtown’s bustling restaurant and bar scene. Opened last fall, the restaurant offers private space in the Opium Den.

In 2014, Arnaldo Richards and his wife Janice moved Picos, their much loved restaurant from 1980, to Upper Kirby, just west of downtown. Carrying on their tradition of potent margaritas, the new venture is focused on premium tequilas and mescals, along with authentic regional Mexican fare. As beverage director, daughter Monica travels around Mexico to hand-select these elixirs for the bar and private tequila room, which seats 30 for private parties.

Also opened in 2014 across from the peerless Menil Collection in the Museum District, Bistro Menil, known for its craft beer and cask wine program, offers a stylish private room with sit-down seating for 24 and reception space for 33 guests.

Named to Eater’s 2015 Young Guns list (recognizing national culinary stars under 30), former Miss Pakistan Annie Rupani hosts monthly tastings and chocolate-making classes at her luxurious Cacao & Cardamom chocolate shop in the Galleria district.

Adding to its long-time Galleria spot, Houston fine-dining institution Pappas Bros. Steakhouse has opened a downtown location. Both offer stylish spaces for private dinners and events. Slated to open this spring in a 13,700-square-foot, two-story space in River Oaks, Steak 48, from Los Angeles and Phoenix steakhouse impresarios Jeffrey and Michael Mastro, will offer six private rooms for 14 to 150 guests. The 5,000-square-foot upstairs area can be reserved for events, complete with a dedicated bar and private patio; full buyouts for up to 400 are also available.

Also new in River Oaks is iPic, a Florida-based chain of luxury movie theaters. Available for group rental, the venue incorporates the event-capable gastro-lounge Tuck, and new deluxe iPic Pod, featuring two airline-style reclining leather seats and F&B service from stealthy “ninjas.”

Master Class
As new arrivals enhance the scene, established players continue to anchor Houston’s culinary firmament.

In 1980, Robert Del Grande put Houston on the culinary map with his acclaimed Cafe Annie. Also famed as one of the four “Texas Mafia” chefs who founded Southwestern cuisine at the time, the rock-star chef (he has played guitar with Dallas legend and fellow mafioso Dean Fearing in the Barbwires since 1985, when they debuted at a James Beard Foundation fundraiser) continues to wow diners at RDG + Bar Annie in Uptown/Galleria (the reinvigoration of Cafe Annie, from 2009), and at The Grove in Discovery Green Park by the convention center. Both restaurants offer classy indoor and outdoor terrace event space.

Considered Houston’s top French restaurant, Etoile Cuisine et Bar in Uptown Park offers private dining and meeting space for up to 30 guests.

Uniquely blending Indian hospitality, French sophistication and American informality, decade-old Kiran’s Restaurant & Bar is Houston’s go-to for Indian fine-dining. With the 150-seat venue available for buyouts during lunch hours, the restaurant’s Polo Room is one of Houston’s most exclusive spaces. Looking out on palm trees through a wall of windows, the sunny space seats 60 and has hosted many VIP and celebrity affairs.

Close to the convention center, Reserve 101 has the largest whiskey selection in Texas. Also serving exotic martinis and wine, the venue hosts monthly whiskey tastings with master distillers and renowned brand ambassadors from around the world, plus private tastings with co-owner and passionate whiskey connoisseur Mike Raymond.

Another haven for the thirsty is Local Pour in River Oaks. Featuring a long bar with 48 taps and Texas-made beer, wine and liquor, this spacious tavern offers private space for 50 in the Fish Bowl. With live music every Wednesday through Saturday night and regular keg tapping events and craft beer tastings, the venue opened a second location north of the city in The Woodlands last year.

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About the author
Jeff Heilman | Senior Contributor

Brooklyn, N.Y.-based independent journalist Jeff Heilman has been a Meetings Today contributor since 2004, including writing our annual Texas and Las Vegas supplements since inception. Jeff is also an accomplished ghostwriter specializing in legal, business and Diversity & Inclusion content.